- 9月 03 週日 201709:08
墨西哥 Guanajuato 瓜納華托
不知道是什麼時候開始 擁有波斯跟馬雅文化的伊朗跟墨西哥 一直都在我的願望清單之中
剛好在2016年的愚人節 感謝日本航空的bug票 讓墨西哥來回的機票從5萬變成2萬
讓我有機會見識一下這個印象中 充滿毒梟黑幫的國度XD
(然而墨西哥的旅遊簽證 號稱是台灣人最難)
I don't remember when it start but Iran and Mexico are always been my wish list for travelling.
Fortunately I got a chance to visit this country notorious for drug lords and gangsters after booking a ticket TPE-SFO bug fare ticket on Fool day 2016(thanks for JAL honored it !)
(however tourist visa to Mexico has bad reputaion for Taiwanese)
Guanajato 在墨西哥的西部由於不算是大城市 儘管有機場但也少有國際航班起降
對我來說最方便的方法是飛到第二大城Guadalajala 再搭四個小時的巴士過去
Guanajato is located between Guadalajala and Ciudad de Mexico, it's not a big city enough to have international flight landing.
For me, the cheapest and the most convenient way is taking a flight to Guadalajala and taking a bus to Guanajuato.
巴士站, 長程過夜巴士在墨西哥有很完整的交通網
第一次使用西文買票還蠻新奇的 大概就有人聽得懂我講的話得那種興奮感
班次非常密集 可以刷卡 還可以像坐飛機一樣選位 價格有點高大概500 peso 不過很值得
Bus station, I can only reach it by taxi. Night bus is common way to travel between cities in Mexico.
It's not really hard to buy a correct ticket by my Spanish (like "somebody understand what I am saying") but to find where the bus is. :p
The buses come very frequently ,can be paid by cards , and plus I can picked a window seat or aisle seat like buying a flight ticket.
因為是過夜巴士的關係 1x2的配置加上超長的椅距 習慣的話可以睡得蠻好的 習慣的話...
高速公路的路況蠻好的 上車前還會給食物跟水 巴士裡面還有廁所跟電視
應該是我坐過最舒適的了吧 但我因為時差問題 就算超累也沒睡得很好就是了
What it looks like inside the luxury bus inside. It works as night bus so you could have a nice sleep given the super wide chair and business class seat pitch.
Road condition is good, and they gave me bread and water before embarking. There are small TVs in every seat and there is a toliet inside!
Therefore it was the most comfy bus I had ever taken, for sure. I didn't sleep well becuase of jet lag though.
大概過了三到四個小時 到了Guanajuato 巴士站總站 (途中還在台灣人很多的Leon停留)
巴士總站 ¡ Bienvenidos a Guanajuato ! Festival Internactional Cervantino 看樣子是有活動
After 3-4 hours, the bus arrived at Guanajuato's bus station
接著要轉搭當地的公車 (搭統聯接307的意思)
出了巴士站只有一個站牌 應該是往市中心的吧
在我問了一對老夫婦 搭這趟要多少錢之後
他們一直跟我說話 可是我只具備cinco pesos 這種程度的聽力啊 阿伯>"<
(難怪人家都會說 要找人練習對話 找老先生老太太準沒錯XD)
The bus station, I was about to take a local bus into downtown after the long haul one.
There was only one bus stop over there, I thought it was supposed to be the direction to downtown.
But I i didn't know how much it cost, so I ask an old couple (who are always be the best choice to practice your non mother language)
I was kind of embarrassed while they're keep talking to me after I learn it's five pesos.
巴士外觀雖小又舊 但是進去裡面真得是柳暗花明又一村
通通都是當地的街景教堂來裝飾 喜歡這樣平實的風格
The bus was pretty much what I expected, old and small.
But they are really good at inside decoration, huh?
I like the way they did, with the local plaza, buildings and street. love it totally.
Guanajuato 是西班牙人依山建造的銀礦城市
超級特別的地方是把水道改成運礦的地下隧道 (聽說下雨的時候會淹水XD)
現在則是作為疏通車流的車道 下了長程巴士轉搭公車就在這地下車道的某個地方放大家下來
大家再從人行道回到地球表面
當地人是這樣的日常沒錯
對我而言則是從一片烏漆媽黑跟汽車疾駛的聲音 突然變成刺眼的陽光跟喧鬧的街道
這不過是十秒之內發生的事情 馬上感受到墨西哥觀光城市的活力!
Guanajuato was a city built alongside a valley by Spainish, for mining silver.
It seems that they turned underground river into tunnels, and they sre still working as drive ways nowaday.
The bus dropped us inside one of the tunnels, then we went up from a dark rumbled place to a sunny, thriving and lively street. And that's within just 10 secs !
到了地面上之後 已經兩天沒有躺下的我第一件事情就是找預定的旅館
因為打算在這裡好好休息一下 於是預定了view非常棒的房間
Guanajuato的制高點 Pipila紀念碑附近
打算邊耍廢邊看那個心目中的風景
但在那之前 我得背著我的包包爬15分鐘的樓梯才行
那過程喘得我印象深刻 明明還好的路 包包也不算重
但我就是喘得有點誇張 但還好一切都很值得 看一下這個view !!
For someone who didn't lay down for 48 hours, the first thing here was find reserved hotel, where is located near El Pipila.
Which means I had to walk up stairs for 15+minutes, it's getting harder for me to breath while climbing up.
Even if my bag was not really heavy and the stairs were not really steep. Fortunately it's totally worth it :). Look at the view!
很幸運在Guanajuato這幾天都是超級好天氣
在休息了一晚之後 隔天大概跟到公園運動的阿伯一樣早起 到無人的El Pipila晃晃
看著制高點上那尊第一個站出來推翻西班牙政權的英雄雕像 再看看遠方辨識度極高的各式西式建築以及街道
此時台灣正在吵著要拆了中正紀念堂
我是覺得有很多形式可以宣告台灣已經脫離威權時代 顛簸地走向民主之路
同時又可以靜靜地提醒著台灣有著這樣的一段歷史
說可惜很奇怪 但拆掉真的不是好選項阿
例如保留中華民國美學代表 這樣不是很不錯嗎XD
I was lucky enough to enjoy sunny days during my stay.
After strgguling with the jet lag, the next morning I visited El Pipila, a monument for Pipila who standing out for liberate Guanajuato from Spanish.
While standing below the momument, I was think about the sight I was looking : Spanish churches and El Pipila were all in the same city, in the same time.
It's happened to a fierce debate whether tearing down Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in Taiwan.
History always comes complicated, every part of any single one place it makes the people different from others. And the first thing of history is remember.
One way or another, Taiwan cannot wipe out the history that we have been ruled by Chinese and Japanese. That interlaced history becomes part of us.
早上的光線就是不同凡響 每次看見這種光線
不論手邊有沒有相機 就是覺得什麼東西都變得很漂亮 心情也跟著非常愉悅
然後就想著下一個夏天我也要常常早起 結果一次都沒有
(這篇是隔年夏天快要過完的時候寫的XD)
These are photos on the streets. So called the golden hour, it always made me delighted whether I have a camera in my hand or not.
After enjoying sunlight like this, I usually made a decision to get up earily during next summer, and it turned out never XD.
狹窄的街道的兩側 是五顏六色的房子 跟放花盆的小小的窗台
Festival Internactional Cervantino的小牌子 無違和地偶爾出現
如果是方便主義至上的台灣 這裡的街道會變成什麼模樣?
colorful houses
在這裡的幾天 走在熱鬧的地方幾乎都可以聽見各式各樣的音樂
不知道是否是慶典的關係
Everywhere you walking by, there are music around ( didn't know if it's the Festival?)
從河谷的一邊往下走到廣場附近 再往另外一邊走上去
從人聲鼎沸的市集廣場 到安靜的住宅區 漸漸地我好像有點忘記提高警戒
還回想起在Porto爬上爬下 雖然腳很痠但是想要把整個城市的角落都走遍的心情
山中或是河谷的城市總是這麼吸引人 交錯在高低地勢的街道 一個轉角就會看見截然不同的風景
葡萄牙的Porto 尼泊爾的Chromrong 墨西哥的Guanajuato 當然還有台灣的越夜越美的九份山城
Walked down from one side of the vally to the plazam and going up to another side.
Walked from the noisy street to the quiet residential area, I found myself forgot to stay alerted gradually.
And the climbing down and up thing also reminded me the experience in Porto.
Walking arounf the downward and upward street interlaced in the irregular terrian was so tiring, but you never know what in the next corner :)
The city built in the valley and mountain are so attractive for me, such as Porto, Chromrong, and Jiufen in Taiwan of course .
Teatro Juarez號稱是全墨西哥最美的歌劇院
Teatro Juarez , has a reputation for being the most beautiful theater in Mexico
不知不覺已經走到另一邊的制高點了
El Pipila 變得好小...
had walked to another side of this city unconsciously
El Pipila was small to me now.
剛好遇到的大型舞蹈彩排 這個時候超熱所以大家都在太陽曬不到的地方看
正中央的舞台反而通通沒人XD
其實在很多地方都會遇見不同形式的表演
Ran into a rehearsal of the festival. Actually there are activities everywhere, you can expect encountering one of them in the next corner.
看來是很民族風的表演 還有吉他跟小提琴伴奏
Looks like a traditional dance with guitar and violin accompaniment.
再來就是大街上的各種市集了
徒步區可以看到很多街頭藝人表演 搞笑的 賣東西的 音樂的
這個吹印加傳統樂器的好多人圍著看
It's always interesting to walking into local markets for me.
Street performing are scattered in the main street. I think this one is Inca music.
Guanajuato也是墨西哥壁畫之父Diego Rivera的出生地
也不知道是他比較有名 還是他的妻子Frida Kahlo比較有名
總之兩個都是對墨西哥而言相當重要的人物
墨西哥鈔票面額最大的是500 peso, 正反兩面各是他們夫妻倆的肖像 地位可想而知
可能也因為如此 (後來才知道其實每個觀光城市都是這樣XD)
這裡有賣衣服 包包的地方總是不難發現有各種Kahlo的畫像在上面
這個市集也看得到Diego名作的仿畫在上面
Diego Rivera is the greatest Artist of Mexico, and he was born here.
You could also find his work (and Frida Kahlo 's of course) everywhere, especially on something to sale.
在這裡兩天的生活時間過得很快
對於墨西哥食物接受度意外地高(路邊的小吃都好棒)
當地人對於觀光客的溫度對我來說也剛剛好 簡單的旅遊西語也還算夠用
只有在sim卡加值的時候遇到無法說清楚的狀況
好在店員太太好有耐心 雖然他聽不懂我的英文 我聽不懂他的西文
最後還是弄懂我要幹嘛了
I stayed here for 2 whole days, it passed so quickly!
I love the way locals treat tourists, not over passionate nor non-friendly.
The only one barely called trouble was adding value to my sim card.
Fortunately the clerk was so nice, smart and had patience.
She finally got what I needed even if I didn't understand her Spansih and she didn't understand my English .
最後一天等公車離開Guanajato前往San Miguel de Allende的時候
因為不知道到站的公車要開去哪裡 所以就想說一台一台上去問是不是到總巴士站的
第一台問到的就不是 但是司機大叔放著整車乘客 找了紙筆寫了這個給我 叫我給之後的司機看
也對我太好了QQ
那當下想的 我是不是即將帶著這兩個禮拜最棒的回憶離開這裡 然後就這麼開高走低下去呢?
When I plan to leave Guanajuato to San Miguel de Allende.
I stood at one of the bus stop and decided hopped on to ask if the bus was going to the central bus station since information on the bus wasn't clear for me.
The first answer I got is no, but not just a no. The bus driver was looking for a pen and any piece of paper despite the other passengers on his bus.
Then I got this, he told me show this to every bus I got. :)
I was wondering if experience here would be the best part in the whole trip when I looked this piece of paper.
不知道我小時候搭公車的時候 是不是也像他一樣這麼開心
Didn't know if I was as happy as this cute boy when I took my first bus in my childhood.
後來上公車遇到兩個亞洲女生
很快地我們發現彼此
我那時候在心裡想...應該是香港人吧 也沒有想去打擾他們
直到在巴士站 其中一個忍不住問我哪裡來的 (又再一次得到 "我們以為你日本人耶"@@ )
原來是政大的歐語學生來這裡交換阿XD 也許整個城市就我們這三個台灣人吧?
結果我們在同一班公車上遇到(連目的地居然都是San Miguel de Allende )
但後來發現行程兜不太起來 所以也沒有一起行動 但台灣人能在這邊遇到彼此 真的是蠻開心的(好啦也許只有我開心)
Not long after hopping on the bus, I found there were two asian girls hopping on. Soon we noticed each other (Asian are so eye-catching here)
I thought they are HongKonger and they they thought I am Japanese until one of them asked me where am I from :P.
It turns out they are exchange student from Chengchi university, what a coincidence (maybe there were just three of us Taiwanese in the whole city?)
Another coincidence was we all heading to San Miguel de Allende. I believe the day was specially for all of us despite we didn't travel together there.
In the end, here is a night landscape of Guanajuato, my first latino city.
The colorful way it looked like is just the way it stays in my heart :)
最後 附上一張Guanajuato的夜景
我的第一個拉美城市 不論是白天晚上
他五彩繽紛的樣貌 跟我鮮明的記憶一起住在我容量不多的腦海裡:)
